Pack your bags

The Wild Coast has everything a family needs on offer, and probably right on your doorstep. There’s great fishing for the men of the house, wildlife and long beaches for the women, and for the kids, well swimming, horse riding, surfing and canoeing. But it doesn’t end there; you don’t have to have a family to enjoy it. Off the beaten track, whether you get there by hiking or with your 4X4, you’ll find abundant cultural heritage, rare exotic birdlife and if you lucky, the odd leopard.
There are still so many places along the Wild Coast that I haven’t been to, or so many things I haven’t done. The thing that astounds me is how unique every place is. Some places have great rivers; some have outstanding beaches while others have waterfalls and mountains. Some things are constant however; lush forests, tropical climates and majestic sunrises and sunsets. A great way to see the coastline from a different perspective is from a sea cruise. In doing so, you’ll also get sight of the many whales and an abundance of dolphins common to the area. There a few things that will really impress you.
Upon your arrival, it won’t take you long to pick up on the relaxed atmosphere and slow rhythm; we like to call this “Wild Coast Fever”. There isn’t any real structure here, but there is a real harmony. Guests get an early start, to maximize the full day. Everyone arrives for breakfast, then seem to disperse on there separate journeys. Some go fishing; the young hit the beach, either for the sun or for the surf, while some just meander around checking out the local stalls. Then, without notice, all arrive back together for sundowners and cooldrinks.
Afternoons are a great part of the day. The ambience of the shimmering ocean, turquoise in colour; the endless rolling hills; big skies and sun baked sand from the beach. The smell of grilled fish, meat and veg on the braai and if the kids are lucky, a few roasted marshmallows. Refreshments are well received, and probably well deserved after a long, hot day out; some with great luck fishing or bird spotting and unfortunately, some without much luck at all. With an appetite one only gets on holidays, every holiday maker enjoys a big dinner with a few adults staying on in the pub, just to catch up and compare notes. The children happily move on to the games rooms to play pool and table tennis. After such activity, there aren’t many who complain when bedtime is called.
Many of our guests at Crawford’s have commented on how freely they can walk around without worrying about their safety. Young children play around while mom’s take their dogs for long walks along the beach in the evenings. It really is a dog’s life. I should know, we have three; and don’t they just love digging for stray bones after a braai.
I have often been asked what it was like growing up in the Wild Coast. Being naïve to the impression some people have of the area, I was often perplexed by this question. Why would it have been different to anywhere else. Then enter my days of university and my stint abroad. I always missed home but never really gave it too much thought, but when I did, I felt at ease and experienced great inner peace. When you get here, you realize what makes it special to you.
Many folk still think of the “Wild Coast” as darkest Africa, governed by outdated tribal systems and unrest. The Wild Coast is multicultural, diverse and creates a great platform for understanding different cultures. You just have to look how harmonious people are with nature; often we are joined for breakfast by various birds and vervet monkeys; and occasionally a leguaan for an afternoon nap.
Living on the Wild Coast I have met some of the most interesting people, from all walks of life; some young, others not so young. Some come from the big cities like Los Angeles and London, and many from small “dorpies” up country. All however, share the same great passion for life.
My first memories are of playing next to the River at Umngazi, near Port St Johns, where my folks were managers for the first 6 years of my life. Being fluent in Xhosa, most days were spent with the local kwedini from the neighboring village. I was left in the care of my nannies Malfina and Patricia, while the local Gilly, Vincent took us around to all the good fishing spots. This behavior was quite normal, as there is no fear of vehicles or traffic to worry about. They were very good at making sure I didn’t swim in water too deep though, the attention that they paid to me was like I was one of their own.
When I was 6 however, both my older brother and I were in school, so my folks moved further South down the Wild Coast, to Chintsa East where my Grandparents, Roy and Joan Crawford had opened a small resort they named Crawford’s Cabins. My parent’s, Ian and Lyn Crawford bought their parents out and put their own mark on the resort. We did however; all carry on to live in the resort, and excluding my late grandfather Roy, still do. Now what did I say about the Wild Coast being a place for all ages.
Family business seems to be a trend along this coastline, our great friend, John Costello has continued in his family’s footsteps, by taking over the Outspan Inn situated in Port St Johns. Having lived in the area for the last 35 years, John and Ian have the most intimate knowledge of the rich history and magnificent landscapes this stretch of land has to offer. And it doesn’t take much to get them talking. Refreshingly, it’s not war stories they share, but rather an open discussion you’ll enjoy that will leave you very well informed. I just recently found out the DNA print of the forest in Pondoland is identical to that of the Tsitsikamma Forest.
Trennery’s is another hotel Ian and Lyn enjoyed managing. Having returned there not so long ago, they were happily surprised to find a majority of the same staff, were still employed by the resort. This is consistent with most establishments along the coastline. It makes one think. Maybe housing and employment are not the problem, but rather the identification of employment opportunities in areas where communities already live? But that is another discussion altogether.
So what makes the Wild Coast so special, the great untouched landscape; the friendly locals or maybe it’s even the vibrant holidays that make the Wild Coast just a little “wilder”? I guess its different things for different people. What I do know is that it is a holiday option that is hard to beat. It is filled with dreamy thoughts and outdoor adventures, plus lots of laidback romance.
There is a great variety as all resorts offer different attractions. So spoil yourself; and come test the Wild Coast waters – but be warned, they can become quite addictive.